Fashion during the 19th and 20th century

Queen Victoria ruled England from 1837 to 1901.

Before this time, men were the focus of fashion, but with a queen in power, women surged to the forefront. During the Victorian Era women were seen as pure and clean whose bodies were considered temples which should not be adorned with make-up. The role of a wife became to show off  her husband’s status and wealth, the husband receding to the background.

Many different clothing styles came and went during her reign, namely:

 Pre-Hoop Era 1840-1855/Hoop Era 1856-1869/Early Bustle 1869-1876/Natural Form 1877-1882/Late Bustle 1883-1889/Edwardian 1890’s.

Pre Hoop Era: In the 1840’s full skirts were supported by a vast array of petticoats made of horsehair or stiffened with cane and padding. The natural waist could be slightly longer than natural, with points in front and behind. Most trimmings were applied to widen at the shoulder, narrowing at the waist and again widening at the hem of the skirt to accentuate the tightly laced waistline.

 The bodice shoulder line ended well below the natural shoulder, often pinning the arm of the wearer down. Day dresses had narrow sleeves while evening bodices were often covered with folds of fabric or a bertha. 

In the 1850’s the sleeves started to become wider and skirts expanded in size as more and more petticoats were worn. Added flounces on the skirt helped create a wider look as dress fabrics were milled specially for flounces, with colours and patterns were designed to be cut into strips. Daytime necklines were more open and a ‘V’ neckline would be filled in over the bust by a small chemisette.

Hoop Era: With the reinvention of the cage crinoline in 1856, skirts were free to expand even farther. The round shaped hoop was somewhat bustled behind, the skirts being made of straight widths of fabric v pleated into a waistband. Bodice sleeves were full pagoda style, gathered at the shoulder and full/split at the wrist with a linen undersleeve. The bodice for casual attire now ended at the natural waist, straight all around, but the formal the formal one often had two long points at the front and 1 or 3 long points in the back.  

During the Civil war, hardships caused a decline in amount of fabric and trimmings in dresses and flounces disappeared. In 1864 the 2 piece coat sleeve tapered at the wrist and widened at the elbow and the bodice ending at the waist become popular. In 1865 skirt widths started diminishing at the hips to almost fit the waist and by 1867 skirt size reduced altogether. In 1868 skirt backs were cut in straight breadths and in 1869 the hoop was replaced by the bustle.

Early Bustle: The bustle was a framework on which the skirt was full in front and had even more fabric at the back. Overskirts became a must, and if one was not worn, one could be simulated with trimmings. In 1870 most bodices ended at the natural waist. The overskirt would be fitted over the bodice, showing a belt and often a large bow behind. A detached basque (a very short overskirt) became fashionable. By 1873, bodices became longer and longer and the polonaise was born. It was a bodice and overskirt in one garment. 

In 1875 the bustle began to dwindle in size but excess fabric remained. Many petticoats were worn to help keep the dress from trailing through the dirt. The shoulder line of the bodice still extended slightly past the natural shoulder.

Natural Form: By 1877 the bustle had diminished to a small pad or nothing at all. The bodice called the Cuirass became long and smooth fitting over the hips.A tall, slim figure became fashionable. The skirt had tie strings inside to hold the front close to the legs, leaving the back to flow freely into a train.The detached overskirt lost flavor. Bodices were also more on the shoulder than off. By 1879  the fan skirt becomes the mode. Petticoats and even hoops were needed to hold the ‘fan’ in good shape. The bodice shoulder line moves up to natural shoulder line. Neckline for day wear becomes more conservative, either high with a collar or open in a small ‘V’. By 1880 skirts are very slim and the train begins to disappear.

Late Bustle: In 1883 the bustle returned with vengeance. Skirts remains slim in front but ballooned out over a bustle frame. Evening dresses are often without sleeves. The back draperies are usually lifted high into poufs. Soon poufs, swags and drapes become an art form in itself. The daytime neckline becomes very high, with a collar. The sleeve gains fullness near the shoulder, but remains fitted below.  

Ancient Roman Clothing

The Romans had adapted to a very Greek architecture for their own purposes and created new styles in architecture as well. Vaults and arches and an intimate knowledge of building materials enabled them to achieve great success in constructing and making structures that could be used by the population.

Roman literature had its very birth influenced from Greek authors. The earliest works that are possessed till now are of historical epics telling the earliest military history of Rome.  While the republic expanded, authors began to make poetry, comedy, history and tragedy.

The paintings that were found had Etruscan influences, especially in the practice of political paintings. . Music was a part of life. Public and private events had music.  Great attention was paid to physical activities and sports and games were intricately woven into Roman culture.

There is evidence of the existence of a substantial garment industry employing  dyers and professional tailors. The main fabric was wool, later followed by linen, cotton and silk. Dyeing was done primarily from an extract of the murex sea snail harvested in the Eastern Mediterranean.

The basic garments used in Roman clothing were the Tunic, Toga, Cloak and the Stola, which was worn by women. 

Men generally wore two garments, the Tunica and the Toga, the Tunica being a short woolen under garment with short sleeves. In cold weather they were likely to wear two or three Tunics, in which case the one nearest the body, functioning as a vest, would be the Subucula. 

The Types of Tunics were Tunica Augusti Clavi: decorated with narrow Purple Stripes and worn by Knights and Legislators; Tunica Laticlavia: a much wider Clavi, reserved for wear by Senators; Tunica Palmata: made of purple silk Embroidered with Gold Thread, depicting scenes of  Military Campaigns. It was worn with Toga Picta; Tunica Recta: worn by both Men and Women during Marriage; Tunica Talaris: a full length Tunic which came into vogue during the 2^nd Century. 

The Toga was allowed to be worn only by Free Roman citizens. Foreigners or even exiled citizens could not appear in public wearing a Toga.

The Toga was basically a large Blanket, draped over the body, leaving one arm free. It usually spanned between 2.5 to 3 meters in length, some reaching up to 5.5 meters long, and up to 2 meters at its  widest.

Types of Togas:- Toga Praetexta: worn by all free Sons and Daughters of nobility until the age of 16 and also by Old Senators. It was White with a Purple Border; Toga Pura or Viriles: a plain natural Toga made od Unbleached Wool and worn by all Roman citizens over 16; Toga Candida: similar to Toga Pura, but of Bleached Wool, usually worn by candidates for Public Office, without Tunica; Toga Picta: worn on special occasions by High Ranking Officials. It was Purple in colour with Golden Embroidery; Toga Pulla: a Black or Dark coloured toga worn for Mourning. 

Paludamentum (Cloak): a Cloak or Cape fastened at one shoulder, worn by Military commanders and (less often) by their troops. It was generally Crimson, Scarlet or Purple  or sometimes White. It was fastened at the shoulder with a Clasp called the Fibula, whose size and form varied through time. Putting on the Paludamentum was a ceremonial act on setting out for War.

 

Stola: The basic female garment was the Stola, which was Long Tunic reaching to the ground. It could bave long or short sleeves, or be entirely sleeveless. The Stola was generally worn over another Tunic, the Tunica Interior.

As an Over garment women in the early days of the Republic wore the Recinium, a simple square Cloak, covering the shoulders. Later the Recinium was replaced by the Palla. 

 

The Palla was there as a Wrap for the females and they had to necessarily wear it while in the outdoors. It was either Simple or Decorated. 

 

Beards: The tradition of  intricately groomed beards was quite common among the Greeks, Etruscans and Romans. The fashion of Shaving was adopted by the Greeks during the age of Alexander and was introduced by them to the Romans. In the Late Republic it was very fashionable for young Romans to keep a small, well-groomed beard known as Barbula.

Hairstyles: Roman women’s hair was plaited in braids and tied at the back of the head. Men’s hairstyle was simple curled or straight hairs. 

 

                               

Egyptian Fashion in the Ancient Times

Egyptians valued family life. They treasured their children and regarded them as a blessing. In the lower class families, it was the mother who took care of the children. The upper classes had servants and slaves to look after the children and help around in the house.

Clothing was not much of practical need. It was more of a luxurious item. The more the people went up the social scale, more the clothing and jewelry they wore. Even so, the drapery of the clothing was light and was designed to accentuate the body shape, rather than conceal it. 

The most elaborate clothing was worn by the Pharaohs and their queens as a symbol of power. Jewelry was a very prominent costume focus. It was worn by both the sexes.

The Aristocratic Egyptians shaved their heads and wore wigs, instead of growing out natural hair. They eye makeup done during that time was by applying kohl. Both the men and women applied it. Perfumes and body oils were also used. 

 

Linen textile scraps still remain to indicate the fact they might have been using fine linens. The linen pleated garments were usually depicted were straight pieces and gave a body hugging stretch and wrapped around in various ways or tucked. The Egyptian artists were very good at showing proper human body proportions. Men were showed having muscular arms nd legs and had broad shoulders with slim bodies while the women had smaller waists, flat stomachs and rounded busts. Beadwork is shown through their art work and intricate weaves were also very common. 

The men wore knee-length skirts. It was usually made of loincloths, kilts made of linen. Even leather loincloth was seen. The garments were seen having decorations with gold threads and beadwork that was colourful. 

There were different types of clothing. A coat was made to cover the body from the hips to the abdomen, supported by a band passing over from one shoulder. This was the Kalasiris. There were many types of this particular garment. Some form of the kalasaris did not have a sleeve but some also had short sleeves or long and fairly wide sleeves. This garment also had width variations. The sewn type of kalasaris was short and it resembles a woman’s petticoat. The width of the material determined the length. Therefore it only has one seam. The folds were distributed at equal distances from the body. At times, it was also worn in an apron manner and because of that, it did not require any sewing it. The other type of kalasaris was the one that covered the whole body up to the neck and was made from a rectangular piece of material which was longer (as much as twice) that the garment. The sides were then sewn together. Later, came the sleeved kalasaris. The sleeves were either cut separately and sewn. Or there would be a slight change in the garment itself. 

 

 Other than the kalasaris, there were capes too. It was worn by both the sexes. The earliest version was used as a daily wear, had a circular shape. It was made out of linen painted in diverse colours.

Another style of the cape was made out of transparent materials. It fell from the shoulders till the elbows or a little above them. This cape would either be rectangular or circular in shape with a hole in the centre for the head to pass through. The rectangular one had stripes forming the cape and was laid over the shoulders, gathering on the breast and held by a clasp so that the ends would hang down loosely. The most important style of or element in clothing was draping. Each person had their own style of clothing and putting on garments the resembled each other in the way they were cut and styled.

 We still follow some forms and elements of Egyptian fashion in our daily wear as well. They left us with styles that are unique and increase the level beauty even today. 

Fashion of the Ancient Greeks

The Greeks did not make much of a fuss about the clothing. Their clothes had a very basic function, i.e. to cover and protect. It was all function based. Fabric was cut into a single piece and was styled or restyled according to the fashion of that time. The seams were easy and did not have a complicated style of clothing.

It was made out of the same piece of homespun fabric and was typically homemade. From all ancient Greek vase paintings and sculptures we can see that the fabrics were intensely coloured and were decorated with intricate designs. The clothing for both men and women consisted of two main garments which was a tunic which was either a Peplos or a Chiton. The other one was a cloak, called a Himation. The Peplos was a very large rectangular piece of fabric that was usually made of wool. It was folded over, along the upper edge, so that the over fold (Apoptygma) would reach around the waist line. It was wrapped around the body and had fastenings at the shoulders with a brooch or a pin. Armholes were present on each of the sides. The open side of the garment was either pinned, sewn for a seam or just left that way. 

 

There are some key elements in Greek clothing. First is the Doric Chiton which was a garment that was worn all the way to the sixth century. The Doric Chiton was wool dyed indigo, madder or even saffron. It was mostly patterned. To hang over the breast specifically, the upper edge was folded. Then the other fold was taken and was wound around the body, which was caught together on each of the shoulders by a pin or a brooch. This left the arms uncovered. Although it was open on the right side, it was  held in place by a girdle,on top of the waist. In Attica and Gorinth, the cities of that time, it was sewn together, with no open end on the right side. The garment grew wider and wider as time passed. The over fold was deepened so as to conceal the girdle by including it inside  the girdle or hung over it. 

 

If not girdled, the over fold could be worn over the head in the back as a shawl by raising it.

 The second element that can be noticed of Greek clothing is the Ionic Chiton. It was of Phoenician origin. It was seen as a garment for women but was worn by both the sexes.  The chiton was made out of thin woolens, crepe-like material. Linen , or a gauzy material was used as well. The fabric was cut with enough width from two pieces and then sewn together from the top of the extended arm. At times, it was pleated or just left to trail. Musicians and charioteers were frequently seen wearing this. The chiton was also worn with a chalmydon, which was a short wrap.

 

The third element or design was the Himation.  The Himation was a rectangular piece of cloth with weighed corners, which was slung over the left shoulder which left the right arm free or taken over the left side of the arm. The older men wore the Himation as the only garment and so did the Athenians. Funnily enough, the Himation also served as a blanketand also had woven patterns, selvages and embroidery. It was found in natural colours like white, browns, black crimson, or even purple. 

 

The fourth design is the Chlamys which is a smaller rectangular cloth made of wool. it was pinned at the right side of the shoulder or front, at times it was bordered, or just worn along with a short chiton. This was generally worn by men who were younger.  The fifth design was the Peplos which is a fabric folded over and hangs down, across the top of a Chiton. 

 

Overall, history tells us that the Greek clothing was primarily made of two types of materials. Firstly, they were made of wool. It was woven from very coarse to very soft types of wool. They also used linen in various qualities, from fine to very soft. The drapes in the Greek culture were not crisp and folded properly and the linen used was not as stiff as the ones used in Egypt.

The colours that were used during this period were bright hued like yellow, indigo, green, dark red, violet and earthy colors. The motifs had a vast range, from geometric patterns to arrangements of circles and squares to vegetable motifs like ivy, laurels and waterleaf.